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| Jasper at twilight. |
While they share a common name, the Canadian Rockies differ greatly from their American counterparts. Those who have visited both cite a notable difference in the demeanor of these two ranges. Both are awash in alpine beauty but distinctly different. The dramatic and remote reputation of the Canadian peaks led me to seek out a first hand audience with the fabled peaks of the great white north, among them Mount Robson and Mount Edith Cavell.
When the time came to visit, I opted for the scenic route, taking a VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.ca), train from Vancouver, BC to Jasper National Park in northern Alberta. As the Canadian prairie rises to form the foothills of the Canadian Rockies, the contrast in topography creates a marvelous and truly unique landscape. By the time my train skirted the base of Canada’s photogenic Mount Robson (12,972 ft.), I was starting to sense what made this region so unique. The landscape is alive with primal beauty, untamed and teeming with the spirit of the unknown.
Pulling into Jasper, the colossal proportions of the wilderness came into focus. Tourism is the major boon, thanks to the presence of Jasper National Park (780-852-3858; www.jaspercanadianrockies.com) This small town is immersed in a circle of jagged, beautiful peaks, striated with alternating layers of snow and rock. Clear rivers cut through green boreal forests and the crisp air felt cold, pure, and alien to my smog-modified lungs. The instantly-distinct contours of Mount Edith Cavell (11,034 ft.) rose in the distance like a grand matriarch, spawning dozens of smaller imitations that grace the granite cascade composing the impressive range. Even in the civilized context of town there is an aura of true wilderness, a sensation completely new and exhilarating.
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| Big air in Alberta. |
These peaks have long been dear companions to world class ice climbers, mountaineers, skiers, and backcountry adventurers who wish to truly indulge in the unfamiliar. Unlike the massive mountains in the US Rockies, these peaks are succinct, clean, and molded with sharp features. Hidden in their valleys are native populations of wolves, bear, wolverine, and coyotes. Expanding beyond the horizon are remote stretches of isolated terrain, where pious mountains stand as guardians for these gateways into the unknown.
It takes only a few moments to grasp the distinct differences from the US Rockies. Geologically speaking, the Rocky Mountains are a continuous chain that divide the North American continent. Whereas the American Rockies are more renown for their sheer girth, the Canadian Rockies are crafted with more precision and infused with an Arctic template. Soft pastel alpenglow contrasts with the light, pine-scented air and come night, the Milky Way smears across the canopy of night. Void of pollutants, one can make out the reds, blues, whites, and yellows that differentiate twinkling celestial bodies.
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| A shady retreat in Jasper National Park |
The next few days were spent trekking to ice caves, walking through the deep forests, and sneaking in some great snowboarding at Marmot Basin Ski area (866-952-3816; www.skimarmot.com). Jasper National Park was among the most beautiful areas I’ve ever set foot, one of those places you begin to miss while you are still there. The locals were kind and rugged, accommodating and resourceful—my kind of people.
If I ever make it, I think to myself, I could easily live here.
Best of all, Jasper is just one of the beautiful natural settings in Alberta. Just east of Jasper are Lake Louise and Banff National Park (403-232-1032; www.banffalberta.com). Similarly nestled in the Canadian Rockies, the Banff region is the true heart of Canadian adventure and the backdrop for countless postcards. Lake Louise Ski Area (877-754-5462; www.skilouise.com) gives a hint of the great backcountry skiing available.
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| Nearby Lake Louise |
While many developed American alpine areas strive to emulate their European counterparts, the Canadian resorts operate with a quiet confidence that imparts a wonderfully unique identity. The land is managed responsibly and respected for its natural grandeur. While the cliché is overused in other settings, Alberta’s Rockies are truly unlike anywhere else in the world.
Months later as I type these words, a goofy grin breaks out across my face. My Canadian memories go beyond mere imagery; chilled pine fragrances and the calls of wild animals in the night are firmly embedded in my mind. In Jasper, one has a sense of being that is refreshingly intimate with true wilderness, replete with all the mystery and danger that give it an appealing allure.
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| Mount Robson's summit is hidden in storms. |
I have no ill-will towards the peaks in my backyard of Colorado. They are like old friends, sometimes moody and temperamental, but cultured and somewhat domesticated to fit our adventurous needs. I would suggest visiting those unruly and largely unheralded peaks in the Canadian Rockies for a magnificent contrast—and to get your soul back in touch with the raw, rugged landscapes so long associated with the most daring of our northern dreams.
Last Updated: Feb 24th, 2006 - 14:18:11
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