• Mummy Shaped Bags: Mummy shaped bags are more efficient at keeping the body warm, however some people who like wiggle room find them constricting. Be sure that if you are buying bags to zip together that the zippers are compatible and you purchase a right and left zipper.
  
  
• Semi-rectangular Bags: These bags have less taper toward the foot area and, consequently, more wiggle room. Since these are not as thermally efficient as mummy bags, they are best suited for summer and warm-weather camping.
  
  
• Rectangular Bags: Most bags in this category are constructed of nylon or nylon blends inside and out. Sleeping bags with cotton insides, quilted rectangular shapes and Spiderman printed on them are not recommended beyond anything but car camping.

Use and Temperature Ratings

Whether you’re sleeping in a snow cave or on the beaches of Kaui, there are sleeping bags to match your climate. However, many times temperature ratings judge the minimum comfort limit of an identical sleeping bag up to 20 degrees apart, so they are not guarantees of warmth. Even without the variables of environmental factors, clothing worn, food eaten, pads used, body size, fitness, etc., the perception of "comfort" varies wildly.

As a rule of thumb, consider the following as a guide to choosing the best temperature rating for your end use (this is far from the gospel though as everyone's metabolisms and perceptions of hot and cold vary widely):

• 30F to 50F for summer use
  
  
• 10F to 20F for three season use
  
  
• -5F to 10F for winter camping
  
  
• -20 or below for mountaineering in extreme conditionsDenali for example
  
  
• -30 or below for arctic conditions

Materials

In general sleeping bags are filled with either goose down or synthetic insulation. Down tends to last longer and can pack into a smaller bundle than synthetic insulation. It also has a better “warmth-to-weight” ratio, meaning that a down bag that offers the same temperature rating as a synthetic bag will weigh less. The catch? Down costs more and loses most of its thermal value when it gets wet.

Types of shell materials

• DryLoft: Produced by W.L. Gore, the makers of Gore-Tex. DryLoft is less waterproof and more breathable than Gore-Tex, which is not used in bags anymore. It is also less breathable than microfibers.
  
  
• Microfiber: Tightly woven and very fine denier (diameter of a fiber) nylon or polyester fiber that sheds wind well and repels moisture OK. Microfibers are less water-resistant than DryLoft.
  
  
• Ripstop Nylon: Durable nylon or polyester fabric with thicker and stronger threads woven into the material in a checkerboard or diamond pattern to increase tear strength.
  
  
• Taffeta: Nylon or polyester fabric that is smoother and more supple than Ripstop or plain nylon or polyester weaves.

Types of insulation materials

• Hollofil, Hollofil II, Quallofil: The budget insulations that are heavier and bulkier than any of their synthetic fiber cousins. These insulations are found most often in car-camping bags.
  
  
• Lite Loft, Micro-loft, Primaloft, Primaloft 2, Primaloft Lite, Thermolite Extreme: These insulators come the closest to a down-like feel but are not as durable as down. Short-staple fibers are lighter, and more packable than Polarguard (listed below) and Hollofil (listed above).
  
  
• Polarguard, Polarguard HV, Polarguard 3D: Long, continuous-filament fibers that are more durable and stable than short-staple fibers. They are also a tad heavier. 3D is the top of the line in this offering.
  
  
• Down: The best insulator out there for loft, warmth-to-weight ratio and durability. It comes in varying "power fills" such as 550, 650 and 800. The higher the number associated with the fill power, the better the quality of down and the less quill in the feather, which translates into more loft, less weight and fewer migrating feathers.

Features

• Two-way zippers offer more ventilation and flexibility options. Be sure to buy a right or a left side zipper that is compatible with the other bag if you are planning to snuggle with a companion. (Mummy and Semi-Rectangular Bags)
  
  
• Differential cutthe inner lining is sewn smaller than the outer shell, allowing insulation to loft up to its maximum. More loft, more warmth. (Mummy, Semi-Rectangular and Rectangular Bags)
  
  
• Insulated draft collar seals in the warmth and keeps out the cold around your neck and shoulders. (Mummy and Semi-Rectangular Bags)
  
  
• Hook and loop tab to cover the zipper toggle by the hood, preventing unplanned unzipperings whilst you slumber. (Mummy, Semi-Rectangular and Rectangular Bags)br
  
• Multi-sectioned or shaped hood to cup the head naturally.
  
  
• Ample draft tube that hangs from the top of the bag and covers the zipper to seal out cold air . (Mummy, Semi-Rectangular and Rectangular Bags)
  
  
• Man-made fibers or down for insulation. Down is lighter and more durable. Synthetic fills will fare best when the bag might get wet.
  
  
• Dark colored lining. This absorbs heat and the sun's rays most efficiently should you need to dry out your bed. (Mummy, Semi-Rectangular and Rectangular Bags)
  
  
• Highly desirable option: a fleece-lined stuff sack. Turn it inside out for a comfy pillow when stuffed with a parka or your extra clothes. (Mummy and Semi-Rectangular Bags)

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• Always stuff your sleeping bag, never roll it. Stuffing is actually easier on the fabric and fill.
  
  
• Be gentle with your sleeping bag when removing it from the stuff sack, never yank it.
  
  
• Store your bag uncompressed in a large, breathable storage sack—a king-sized pillow case works well. Hanging it or storing the bag flat also works.
  
  
• Wear clothing such as long underwear and clean socks to bed. The clothing will act like a sheet and protect the inside of your bag from damaging sweat and body oils.
  
  
• Never lay your bag directly on the dirt, use a ground cloth.
  
  
• Air and fluff your bag after each use and never leave it compressed for long.

Last Updated: Feb 24th, 2006 - 14:18:11
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